Le Clos du Caillou

Le Clos du Caillou was established in 1895 by Elie Dussaud (the architect who created the Suez Canal and designed the port of Marseille). The property was mostly wooded and used as a hunting reserve. Le Clos du Caillou is a real ‘Clos’ of 17 ha surrounded by a 3 km wall and is all classified Cotes du Rhone as in 1936 when the appellation was established the inspectors were turned away by the gamekeeper of the estate bearing a gun telling them to leave. The experts were upset at the welcome and refused to classify this small yet beautiful parcel located not far from Chateau Rayas.

When the current family of owners (Claude Pouizin, succeeded by his daughter Sylvie Vacheron) bought the property in 1956 it was still largely a hunting estate and it was then that some clearing began and planting was undertaken of Cotes du Rhone within the Clos. The estate’s Châteauneuf vineyards mostly adjoin the vineyard of Le Clos du Caillou. In 2020 though the Vacheron family acquired the 13.3 hectare estate Domaine de Panisse, located just over a kilometre away in Courthézon. Here, surrounding the beautiful 19 century home lies another 6.8 hectares of prime Châteauneuf vineyard, with some vines just celebrating their 100th anniversary.

Clos du Caillou’s Châteauneuf vineyards are producing some of the most highly regarded and highly rated Châteauneuf du Papes today including the Quartz and La Reserve cuvées which come from vineyards adjoining the ‘Clos’ of Clos du Caillou where much of their best Cotes du Rhone originates from. The Châteauneuf lieu-dits that the estate owns vines in are all very close to the estate and winery in Pignan, Guigasse, Les Bedines, Les Cassanets and Coudoulet. These are all lieu-dits with higher elevation than most and more trees and woodlands surrounding.

‘They produce poised and silky wines of supreme finesse.’ Matt Walls, Wine of the Rhone, 2021.

Organic viticulture began in the 1950s and the estate was certified in 2009. Now much of the estate has been farmed biodynamically for almost 20 years. The vines planted in the 1950s and 1960s now have excellent age and the children of Sylvie are in the process of taking over the running of the estate working with Bruno Gaspard who has been overseeing the winemaking since 2002. The cellars are deep and very cool and enable perfect ageing in an assortment of large foudres demi-muids and some clay amphoras for 15-18 months for the best cuvees.

WINE NOTES AND REVIEWS

White Wines

2022 Côtes du Rhône Le Caillou Blanc
50 % Grenache Blanc, 35 % Viognier, 15 % Clairette from 40-50 year-old vines, yielding only 34 hl/ha. Hand-picked and hand-sorted, then whole-bunch pressed and settled overnight at 10°C. Cool-fermented in stainless steel tanks and matured on fine lees for 4 months.

‘The 2022 Cotes du Rhone Le Caillou Blanc is a blend of Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Viognier, including some purchased fruit from the north of Vaucluse. It sees only stainless steel. Notes of pear, tangerine and anise appear on the nose, while the medium-bodied palate is plump and appealing, with hints of chalk and lime zest on the finish. Drink it young.. Drink 2023-2025.’ 89 points, Joe Czerwinski, The Wine Advocate, September 2023.

2022 Côtes du Rhône Le Bouquet des Garrigues Blanc
40 % Clairette, 20 % Grenache Blanc, 20 % Viognier, 10 % Roussanne, 10 % Bourboulenc from 45 year-old vines, yielding only 25 hl/ha. Hand-picked and hand-sorted, then whole-bunch pressed and settled overnight at 10°C. Cool-fermented in stainless steel tanks and matured on fine lees for 4 months.

‘The medium-bodied 2022 Cotes du Rhone Le Bouquet des Garrigues Blanc was picked over approximately six weeks, beginning on August 10 with the Viognier and ending September 27 with the last of the Clairette Rose (the blend also includes Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Bourboulenc). Scents of lime zest, pear and melon dominate the nose, while the palate is rather lean, with a zesty, focused finish. Drink 2023-2027.’ 90 points, Joe Czerwinski, The Wine Advocate, September 2023.

Red Wines

2022 Côtes du Rhône Le Caillou
80 % Grenache Noir, 10 % Syrah, 5% Mourvèdre, 5 % Cinsault from 60+ year-old vines, yielding only 33 hl/ha. Hand-picked and hand-sorted, then natural-yeast fermented in a mix of concrete and stainless steel tanks, with 20 % whole bunches included. Matured in concrete tanks for 4 months. whole-bunch pressed and settled overnight at 10°C. Cool-fermented in stainless steel tanks and matured on fine lees for 4 months.

‘The 2022 Cotes du Rhone Le Caillou was bottled in April 2023. Mainly Grenache, made with approximately 30% whole clusters, it's an impressive effort, marked by big raspberry and strawberry fruit on the nose. It's medium to full-bodied, concentrated, silky and long on the finish. It's a terrific value, ideal for drinking over the next several years. Drink 2023-2030.’
90 points, Joe Czerwinski, The Wine Advocate, September 2023.

2020 Côtes du Rhône Le Bouquet des Garrigues
75 % Grenache Noir, 15 % Syrah, 10 % Mourvèdre, Carignan and Counoise from 50 year-old vines, yielding only 30 hl/ha. Hand-picked and hand-sorted, then natural-yeast fermented in a mix of concrete and stainless steel tanks, with 5 % whole bunches included. Cuvaison lasts 30 days with extraction via pumpover and delestage (rack and return). Matured for 14 months in 50 % old foudres (1000 L) and demi-muids (600 L) and 50 % concrete tanks.

‘Still maturing in a mix of foudres and wooden cuves at the time of my visit, the 2020 Cotes du Rhone Le Bouquet des Garrigues—a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and the rest Cinsault, Counoise and Mourvèdre—boasts vibrant aromas of lavender and ripe red raspberries. Medium to full-bodied, smooth, silky and complex, it's a beauty that should retail for less than $30. Drink 2022-2030.’ (90-93) points, Joe Czerwinski, The Wine Advocate, May 2022.

2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Quartz
80 % Grenache Noir, 20 % Syrah from 60 year-old vines, yielding only 18 hl/ha. Hand-picked and hand-sorted, 100 % destemmed then natural-yeast co-fermented in tronconique wooden casks. Cuvaison lasts 34 days with extraction via plunging and delestage (rack and return). Matured for 15 months in 80 % old demi-muids (600 L) for the Grenache and 20 % old barriques for the Syrah.

‘Checking in at 14.5% alcohol, the 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Quartz is a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah. It displays a fragrant perfume of redcurrant, cranberry, raspberry, dried herbs, white pepper and a dazzling floral element of rose petals. On the palate, it is full-bodied, concentrated and tightly structured with a muscular profile framed by ripe tannins. Perfectly balanced by lively acids, there's excellent persistence on the long finish. Drink 2026-2040.’ 94 points, Nicolas Greinacher, Vinous, April 2023.

2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Réserve
55 % Grenache Noir, 45 % Mourvèdre from 70 year-old vines in the lieu-dits of La Guigasse and Pignan, yielding only 19 hl/ha. Hand-picked and hand-sorted, 100 % destemmed then natural-yeast co-fermented in tronconique wooden casks. Cuvaison lasts 35 days with extraction via plunging and delestage (rack and return). Matured for 14 months in 88 % old demi-muids (600 L) and 12 % in amphora.

‘The 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Réserve turned out magnificently and is one of the highlights of the vintage. The 2021 La Réserve was vinified from organically grown grapes - almost equally Grenache and Mourvèdre. Attractive aromas of predominantly red fruits, crushed flowers, thyme and exotic spices waft from the glass. It seamlessly lingers across the palate, dazzling with polished tannins and excellent freshness. The persistent finish is remarkable, with new flavors emerging long after the wine has left. Drink 2026-2042.’ 95 points, Nicolas Greinacher, Vinous, April 2023.

The old vine cuvee La Reserve is worthy of particular praise. Equal parts of Grenache and Mourvedre are de-stemmed (like all their reds) and co-fermented before being aged for 18 months in demi-muids and a small proportion of terracotta amphorae. The result is a spellbinding and utterly seductive Chateauneuf. Matt Walls, Wine of the Rhone, 2021