The Mader domaine is a very small quantity, high quality wine producer based in the picture postcard village of Hunawihr in the middle of vineyards on the Route des Vins. In June 2019 their 2018 Rieslings were both rated among the best of the vintage by Revue du Vins de France magazine who have also rank the estate among the best of Alsace each year.
The family own just over 10 hectares of vineyards, including prized holdings of vines in the famous ‘Rosacker’ Grand Cru vineyard and also now in the Grand cru Schlossberg. All vineyard work is carried out by hand and since 2005 their son Jerome is now running the estate having studied and gained a Diploma in Oenology. Since returning to the family estate Jerome has also converted all their vineyards to organic viticulture.
Rieslings here are some of the few in Alsace produced in a classic fine dry style built to age. In exceptional years a tiny volume of late harvest ‘Vendanges Tardive’ Riesling is made in a similar fine, elegant style that ages superbly. Jerome is fanatical about quality so yields are kept very low and selections for all wines are very strict ensuring the highest quality. The entire range of wines from the Mader family taste true to their grape varieties and vineyard origins and all represent fantastic value.
2017 Pinot Blanc (Stelvin-Lux)
Floral and textural. Made from a blend of 2/3rds Auxerrois and 1/3rd Pinot Blanc this shows classic white flower and citric aromas leading to a crisp and refreshing palate. “Plenty of floral-honey, baked-apple and quince character, making this light-bodied and supple dry white very easy to enjoy. 90.” JamesSuckling.com May 2018
2017 Riesling (Stelvin-Lux)
This wine also contains almost 10% de-classified Grand Cru fruit from vines around 30 years old in the great Rosacker vineyard. The wine is a blend of several sites of mostly limestone based soil. 2017 has produced a fine dry Riesling with texture and depth. Intense floral and citrus aromas with mineral backing and wonderful acid backbone.
2017 Riesling Grand Cru Rosacker (Stelvin-Lux)
From 60+ year old vines located near the top of the vineyard. 2017 was a great vintage for this outstanding Grand Cru vineyard which is home to the famous ‘Clos St Hune’ Riesling from Trimbach. Tiny yields in the 2017 vintage resulted in this wine of great intensity, finesse and shape with rich, intense citrus fruit with notes of minerality and outstanding length. The wine’s great depth of fruit, structure and minerally acidity ensures that 10 years or more of careful cellaring would be well repaid.
2016 Riesling Grand Cru Rosacker magnum (cork)
From 60+ year old vines located at the top of the vineyard. “From up to 65-year-old vines, the 2016 Grand Cru Rosacker Riesling opens with a deep and complex nose of fresh lemon fruit and crushed limestone. Full-bodied, piquant and fresh, with a very nice grip, this is an almost crisp Riesling with a remarkable freshness and phenolic grip. It is from pure and cold limestone terroir close to the mountains that give it a high minerality. In addition, there are gooseberry avors in the nish. Very pure and salty, highly promising. Fermented until March and kept on the full lees until the bottling in June. Tasted from the stainless-steel tank at the domaine in April 2017. (91-92).” Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate July 2017
2015 Gewürztraminer (StelvinLux)
‘The 2015 Gewurztraminer is sourced in the higher altitudes of Hunawihr from clay and limestone soils. It has a clear and fresh, pretty, precise and aromatic bouquet with some smoky aromas. Bottled with 33 grams of residual sugar, this is a round and semi-sweet Gewurz with good grip and some mineral characteristics. Drink 2018-2030.’ 88 points, Stephan Reinhardt, RobertParker.com, July 2017.
2016 Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Rosacker (Stelvin-Lux)
‘The 2015 Grand Cru Rosacker Gewurztraminer is clear and smoky on the nose, fresh and nicely spicy. On the palate this is a very elegant, finessed and salty Gewurz with a nice tannin grip and structure. The finish is long and complex, well structured, and, although it is quite sweet, is a persistent and expressive Gewurz that is nicely discreet. Drink 2022-2035.’ 92+ points, Stephan Reinhardt, RobertParker.com, July 2017.
2017 Pinot Gris (Stelvin-Lux)
Good aromatic lift with peach, apple and exotic tropical fruit characters on the nose and palate. Round and supple in texture, with wonderfully precise flavour. Great concentration and depth with a little residual sweetness in this ripe vintage. The rich texture and cleansing acid balance gives this wine great immediate appeal yet it also has the structure and depth to age mid-term.
2017 Pinot Gris Grand Cru Schlossberg (Dry) (Stelvin-Lux)
Schlossberg is a south-east facing slope from a steep terraced granite block. It became the first Alsace grand cru in 1975. Mader’s vineyard is east-facing and the highest on the slope from vines over 20 y.o. giving tiny yield. The wine is whole bunch pressed with indigenous fermentation. Aged on lees for 9 months, 1/3 barrel, 2/3 stainless steel. This is an extremely impressive wine and one of the few really dry expressions of Pinot Gris to be found in Alsace. It is a graceful wine with subtle power which builds impressively at the back of the palate.
2001 Riesling Vendanges Tardives
Very limited Only a tiny amount produced of this remarkably fresh and very attractive medium-sweet, late harvest wine. Lovely fine fruit intensity, round and very long on the palate. With a residual sugar level of about 60g/l it’s about half as sweet as a typical Sauternes. And with its vibrant balancing acidity it’s an ideal wine to enjoy at the beginning of the meal as an aperitif, with paté or foie gras, or with scallop, lobster or chicken dishes. It’s also a natural for the cheese platter, particularly with the local cheeses Munster and Tomme d’Alsace.