The Metrat family home and winery are to be found in the midst of the very highly regarded sector of Fleurie called “La Roilette”. La Roilette lies towards the bottom of the slope close to the border of Moulin a Vent and here the soil has a base of clay underneath the decomposed pink granite that is so typical of this area. This makes for wines that have a little more depth and structure than most other Fleuries.
‘A good Fleurie is a wine of medium weight which has an ample flavour absolutely crammed full with this fruit and is overwhelmingly seductive. Some Fleuries can be delicious as early as the spring after the vintage. Others need keeping for another 6 months.’ Clive Coates MW.
The Fleuries from the Metrat family fall into this latter category and these wines are now showing very well with the old vines cuvee having a little more dimension and finesse than the traditional cuvee. The winemaking by the Metrat family is traditional with fermentation in cement and no artificial yeasts used, crop levels are kept low and hand harvested. The wines show great purity of fruit with ample perfume and silky texture. The extraction of tannins is gentle and although these wines are generally drunk young these wines from the Metrat family can confidently be enjoyed over 5 or 10 years if you can manage to keep your hands off them!
‘If only all Chiroubles could be as well crafted as Bernard Métrat's!’ Neal Martin.
From vines aged more than 60 years old facing full south on sandy granitic soil. This vineyard is located higher on the slope than the Fleurie holdings of Metrat and vinification is made all in cement tanks with indigenous yeasts. Rich cherry and red fruit aromas with a touch of aniseed and exotic spices. Full and deep palate backed by fine silky tannins. Showing beautifully already.
2016 Chiroubles La Scandaleuse
From a single full south-facing plot of nearly 80 yo vines which has the historical lieu-dit name of Cote Rotie. After legal threats from the Rhone Valley surrounding the use of the historical name of this beautiful vineyard, Bernard was forced to change the name of this wine, hence the new name La Scandaleuse. Vinified in large cement and then about 15% is aged in smaller used oak barrel. Deeply perfumed with intensity and freshness.
2016 Fleurie La Roilette Vieilles Vignes
From vines planted 1924 and 1936. La Roilette is regarded as one of the best sites in Fleurie, and this old vines cuvee (60-80 years old vines) is produced from a patch of vines planted in pink granite-clay soil located beside the winery in the northern part of the appellation beside Moulin-a-Vent. 15% of this cuvee is vinified in barrel (none new) giving extra dimension to its freshness and perfume, will also age for 10+ years. This is Gamay at it’s finest and beautifully perfumed best.
‘La Roilette cru sits on very deep black granite. Historically, La Roilette used to be part of Moulin-à-Vent, which borders it to the east. In 1920, when Fleurie was demarcated, La Roilette ended up in Fleurie. This wine comes from vines planted in the 1920s and 1930s, and it has amazing density and precision.’ Jamie Goode, wineanorak.com.