Caroline Morey

Caroline Morey comes from  a long line of vignerons based in the Cotes de Beaune and is also married to Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey. In 2014 Caroline has taken her share of some family vineyards from her father Jean-Marc and has created her own domaine based in Chassagne-Montrachet working out of brand new cellars built for Caroline and her husband Pierre-Yves.

For Caroline’s first vintage in 2014 she had small holdings in Chassagne-Montrachet for both red and white together with small holdings in Santenay and Hautes Cotes de Beaune totaling just 2.4 hectares. With more vineyards added both from family and from acquisitions in the last few years the total is now 7 hectares for Caroline. Her family holdings were roughly half for red wines and half for white wines, so Caroline has always been very comfortable vinifying red wines and is clearly adept with whites as well. For her own estate her holdings are about 35% Pinot Noir and 65% Chardonnay.

Caroline’s approach in the cellar shows a similar light touch as her husband using mostly 350 litre barrels with no more than 30% new and with no battonage for the white wines. For the red wines she adapts to each site and each vintage with no ‘recipe’ as such save to say that Caroline favours a little whole bunch when possible but never more than 50% which she considers too much. Now settled into the new cellars and with 5 vintages released it is clear that Caroline has moved straight into the premier tier of producers in the Cote de Beaune as she has rapidly established her very small and very fine estate. With just a few barrels produced of most wines these will be difficult to come by.

All wines very limited and available mostly on allocation.

The wines…

The reds have an open and airy style – lots of elegance in this vintage but not lacking an ounce of material. The whites, at this stage, show a similar elegance but the shapes and often the clarity too are really on a high level. Some covetable wines here.

Red wines

2023 Santenay rouge
From vines located in the lieu-dit of Le Chainey in the southern sector of Santenay quite high on the slope adjoining 1er Cru Grand Clos Rousseau. The wine is aged in 30% new barrels. This shows fine bright sour cherry aromatics with super fine tannins and striking finesse and wonderfully fresh crunchy fruit. So attractive now.
A medium ruby crimson with elegant red fruit on the nose. Two plots, with a tightness to the fruit, some tannins behind still. Virtually all destemmed for this cuvee. Red fruit returns behind. Drink from 2026-2029. Tasted Oct 2024. (87-89) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2024.

2023 Santenay 1er cru La Comme rouge
Made with about 35% whole bunch (layered at the bottom of the ferment). Shows a very pale and delicate colour. Fine strawberry aromas and so fine and silky on the palate this is just irresistable even now. Extraordinary finesse and style from this vineyard which adjoins Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru Embazees.
Actually a paler colour than the village Santenay, but a finer fruit, alpine strawberry and light raspberry, with sound acidity and slightly more refined tannins. Slightly more whole bunch vinification for this wine, around 20%. Drink from 2027-2030. Tasted Oct 2024. (89-91) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2024.

2023 Chassagne-Montrachet rouge
From vines located just below the village in Les Chenes Les Pierres and Les Chambres. Made with 35% whole bunch and bottled in November after 12 months ageing in barrel to capture the freshness. Pale in colour this shows a very fresh and bright aspect with lifted aromatics hinting at cranberry. Super fine tannins and bright crunchy fruit with more depth and stuffing than the Santenay. Serious, yet so approachable already.
Three plots. A little bit troubled but a slightly deeper crimson in any case. A respectable fruit weight despite the deliberate lightness of style, the tannins are present but not rustic, and the fruit flows well behind. Drink from 2027-2032. Tasted Oct 2024. (88-90) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2024.

2023 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru Champs Gains rouge
Elevage this year in 500 litre barrel. This shows fabulous aromatics with real finesse with no lack of depth and persistence. All class and so approachable already. Only two producers make this in red – Caroline and her fa2her. The parcel is now shared.
An even light crimson red. The bouquet is deliciously perfumed, very sensual yet with precision. 40% whole bunches, which gives the delicious sense of lift. Fine and long, happy to sign up for this. Drink from 2027-2033. Tasted Oct 2024. (90-92) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2024.

2023 Beaune 1er cru Greves rouge
Older vines here, planted in the mid-60s, roughly. White planted in the middle, book-ended by this red.
Another palish crimson. Much less perfume than the Chassagne Champgains. A little more depth of vivid raspberry through the middle, firmer tannins and fair length. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Oct 2024. (90-93) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2024.

WHITE WINES - 2023 vintage of the following due 2026

2023 Santenay Les Cornieres blanc
Located just below Santenay Le Haut not far from 1er cru Maladieres. A quick drive through the vineyards of Santenay and it is very clear how much limestone terroir peaks through and so perhaps it is not surprising that some growers are returning to planting Chardonnay in these sites once again. This wine shows very fine ripe orchard fruits even showing a touch exotic.

2022 Beaune 1er cru Greves blanc
From vines planted 1999 in the middle part of this 1er cru. Fine delicate aromas also showing good intensity and depth on the palate. Very promising, give this time to unfurl.
Long rows of 4-500m shared with cousin Thomas Morey a mix of red and white, vines planted in 2001.
The chardonnay vines are at mid slope, which ripens early so the white Beaune Grèves has to be picked among the very first. Attractively perfumed, yet with quite a dainty touch on the palate, with an energy that emerges at the back, after the white fruit flesh, now followed by some tangerine notes. Enough acidity, though in style a wine which will come forward quite quickly. Drink from 2026-2032. (90-93) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2023

2022 Chassagne-Montrachet Chambrées
From 3 parcels of vines 1960’s and early 1990’s old located in Le Chene, Les Masures and La Bergerie. Pure crystalline fruit showing great style and restraint with good generosity for AC level. Average is at least 40 years-old. New vines en-fermage in this vintage. Assembled all the lieu-dits this year, though all vinified separately.
The usual blend of Bergerie, Masures, Chênes though the last is now pulled out (161/49 rootstock). Pale colour and a little bit of spice. A little bit of ripe fruit up front, then quite a fierce acidity behind. Not quite in place today perhaps. Drink from 2025-2028. (88-90) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2023

2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées
From vines planted in the 1950’s located quite high on the slope at the northern end near Puligny. Lots of limestone in this vineyard and it shows with super fine aromatics and palate staining intensity of orchard fruits backed by a great line of acidity. Very long, very impressive. Near Philippe Colin’s vines, near the quarry. Older vines with millerandes.
More lemon than lime in colour. The nose is a little lighter than Les Vergers, but with refinement. This is very stylish on the palate with an excellent intensity of fresh white orchard fruit with a little sucrosity. The sunshine has been well harnessed. Delicious and perfectly balanced. Drink from 2027-2034. (91-94) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2023

2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Vergers
From vines planted early 1960’s and early 1970’s in this well sited 1er cru located on the Puligny side of the village just above Chenevottes and below Les Chaumees. Another new parcel in 2016, actually two parcels. Vines predominantly 50-60 years old with a small younger plantation
Made from 50-60 year old vines, small bunches, small leaves, hardly need to trim them. Millerand throughout. A clear pale colour, with a significant concentration of white fruit on the palate. Not the most demonstrative but there is good intensity, juicy and good acidity too, but above all there is this intensity of white fruit. Do not be in a hurry for this. Drink from 2027-2035.
(91-94) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2023

2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gains
From vines planted 2009 located in the middle of this vineyard just below Caillerets south of the village. More clay and less stones have helped these younger vines in the warm years. This the fifth year with a longer (vs the villages) elevage like the other 1ers.
Low yield at 30-35 instead of 50-55 hl/ha, due to a little bit of 161/49 damage. Lovely pale lemon with a green tint. The bouquet is pleasingly elegant as well, then a little bacon fat arrives. Interesting texture, a fine-grained tannin supporting some quality white fruit. Medium plus length, altogether an attractive wine. Slightly riper aftertaste. Drink from 2027-2034. (90-93) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2023

2022 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets
From 3 parcels with average 45 yo located from bottom to top of the vineyard. Always one of the best 1er cru’s. Very complete.
Caroline Morey’s rows run from top to bottom of the Caillerets slope. A light green tint, fresh and enticing. Precision rather than strictness, with energy but there is a wealth of quality white fruit, with some floral aspects too, lingering nicely on the palate. Racy but ripe apples spread out at the finish. Drink from 2027-2036. (92-95) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2023

2022 Criots Batard Montrachet Grand Cru
From a few rows of vines located towards the bottom of this tiny Grand cru vineyard and the next two rows below Carolines holding are owned by Lalou Bize-Leroy. This holding came from purchasing an old estate based in Santenay which also had this tiny holding of Grand cru. Very pure with discrete power and length. A wine of great freshness and dimension. Wants time.
A delightful pale primrose colour. Toasty notes, a little bit reductive, but appealing and with considerable power behind. In fact, the intensity creeps up on you at the back of the palate. The 2022 Criots tastes beautiful even at this early stage. Open but with plenty in reserve, and very long. Extremely fine. Drink from 2027-2038.
(94-97) Jasper Morris M.W., Inside Burgundy, October 2023