Caroline Morey Burgundy, France.
Caroline Morey comes from a long line of vignerons based in the Cotes de Beaune and is also married to Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey. In 2014 Caroline has taken her share of some family vineyards from her father Jean-Marc and has created her own domaine based in Chassagne-Montrachet working out of brand new cellars built for Caroline and her husband Pierre-Yves.
For Caroline’s first vintage in 2014 she has small holdings in Chassagne-Montrachet for both red and white together with small holdings in Santenay and Hautes Cotes de Beaune totaling just 2.4 hectares. With more vineyards being added in the next 2 years the total will rise to 4.5 hectares in total. Her family holdings were roughly half for red wines and half for white wines, so Caroline has always been very comfortable vinifying red wines and is clearly adept with whites as well.
Caroline’s approach in the cellar shows a similar light touch as her husband using mostly 350 litre barrels with no more than 30% new and with no battonage for the white wines. For the red wines she adapts to each site and each vintage with no ‘recipe’ as such save to say that Caroline favours a little whole bunch when possible but never more than 50% which she considers too much. Having tasted both 2014 + 2015 from barrel Caroline has started extremely strongly and it should come as no surprise to discover that we have another star in the making with this very small and very fine estate. With just a few barrels produced of most wines these will be difficult to come by.
‘Caroline has made a beautiful set of wines in 2017 – the whites are super in their clarity and detail, and the reds, despite very pale colours – and she also makes Pierre’s red – are aromatic, delicious and lack no flavour concentration.’ Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report, October 2018
2017s due July 2019. All wines very limited and available only on allocation.
2017 Santenay Les Cornieres
Located just below Santenay Le Haut not far from 1er cru Maladieres. A quick drive through the vineyards of Santenay and it is very clear how much limestone terroir peaks through and so perhaps it is not surprising that some growers are returning to planting Chardonnay in these sites once again. This wine shows very fine ripe orchard fruits even showing a touch exotic.
’Near the Château de la Crée. ‘This had most of the lees removed before barreling as sometimes it brings a green character.’
Plenty of volume, freshness, a nice width – round in shape but not in style – detail and precision here. Lovely, and the finish is impressive in a comfortable grapefruit style.’ Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report, October 2018
2017 Beaune 1er cru Greves
From vines planted 1999 in the middle part of this 1er cru. Fine delicate aromas also showing good intensity and depth on the palate. Very promising, give this time to unfurl.
Long rows of 4-500m shared with cousin Thomas Morey a mix of red and white, vines planted in 2001.
’Round, more floral, a hint of sulfur again. Faintly cushioned, a little mineral and with a very nice style – again round in shape but not in style, a wine of detail and complexity. A baby but a very pretty one…’ Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report, October 2018
From 3 parcels of vines 1960’s and early 1990’s old located in Le Chene, Les Masures and La Bergerie. Pure crystalline fruit showing great style and restraint with good generosity for AC level. Average is at least 40 years-old. New vines en-fermage in this vintage. Assembled all the lieu-dits this year, though all vinified separately – but with the other new cuvees, ‘Chênes’ not separated this year.
’More width and a little more depth of aroma too. More volume, a little more energy, less directly round more clarity and energy here with some agrume fruit flavour in the finish – though no obvious reductive elements.’ Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report, October 2018
2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées
From vines planted in the 1950’s located quite high on the slope at the northern end near Puligny. Lots of limestone in this vineyard and it shows with super fine aromatics and palate staining intensity of orchard fruits backed by a great line of acidity. Very long, very impressive. Near Philippe Colin’s vines, near the quarry. Older vines with millerandes.
’A little fuller, fine clarity and depth to this nose. Rounder again but with lots of action, it’s a broader intensity, but deliciously so – I slightly prefer the presentation of the Champs Gain, but im splitting hairs. Mineral finishing and with a broad line to that finishing flavour too, this is longer, even with an extra reprise.’ Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report, October 2018
2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Vergers
From vines planted early 1960’s and early 1970’s in this well sited 1er cru located on the Puligny side of the village just above Chenevottes and below Les Chaumees.
Another new parcel in 2016, actually two parcels. Vines predominantly 50-60 years old with a small younger plantation
’More weight of aroma, yellow fruited and profound. A little sucrosity, freshness, steely flavoured, wide, bubbling with movement and complexity. An intensity of mid-palate flavour. Super again.’ Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report, October 2018
2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Gains
From young vines planted 2009 located in the middle of this vineyard just south of the village. Lost 80% to the frost in 2016. This the second year with a longer (vs the villages) elevage like the other 1ers.
’A little extra yellow colour. Again a hint of sulfur. Hmm, fresh, wide, alive, a touch of sucrosity, a clinging intensity of finishing flavour. Super!’ Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report, October 2018
2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets
From 3 parcels with average 45 yo located from bottom to top of the vineyard. Always one of the best 1er cru’s. Very complete.
From the 3 different parts of this area – all the levels of the vines, different slopes, three different plantations, but the average is 45-50 year-old vines. From the road to the forest, a continuous line of vines from top to bottom vs the two separate parcels of PY
’Plenty of width, pale yellow fruited and fresh. A touch of gas. Volume, not rich but richer than Vergers – there’s a little texture to these open and intense flavours. This is really something – bravo.’ Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report, October 2018
2017 Criots Batard Montrachet Grand Cru
From a few rows of vines located towards the bottom of this tiny Grand cru vineyard and the next two rows below Carolines holding are owned by Lalou Bize-Leroy. This holding came from purchasing an old estate based in Santenay which also had this tiny holding of Grand cru. Very pure with discrete power and length. A wine of great freshness and dimension. Wants time.
Second vintage, these vines not far from those of Leroy, but it’s the first vintage that they did everything as the vines were only theirs since November 2016 and they bought the harvest in that vintage.
’The first nose was quite large the second tightens here, stony depth, floral characteristics, there’s a lot to find on this moving target of a nose. An extra depth of texture after the Caillerets, more composed but concentrated too, mineral edged agrume, almost a suggestion of tannin to the mid-palate texture. Very long. More contemplative than the Caillerets, and maybe a little better….’ Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report, October 2018
2017 Santenay Le Chainey
From vines located in the southern sector of Santenay quite high on the slope adjoining 1er Cru Grand Clos Rousseau. The grapes here are fully destemmed and the wine aged in 30% new barrels. This shows fine bright sour cherry aromatics with super fine tannins and striking finesse and wonderfully fresh crunchy fruit. So attractive now.
’2 parcels, 25% whole clusters. Very modest colour – a darker rose. Pretty, wide red fruit. Round, supple, sweetness of fruit, only slowly growing a base of tannin. No astringency. Delicious, easy drinking, round, tasty wine – easy!’ Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report, October 2018
2017 Santenay 1er cru La Comme
Made with about 25-30% whole bunch (layered at the bottom of the ferment). Shows a very pale and delicate colour. Fine strawberry aromas and so fine and silky on the palate this is just irresistable even now. Extraordinary finesse and style from this vineyard which adjoins Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru Embazees.
’Again a pale red colour. More punch and a little more overt wc aroma – an exciting and inviting nose for fans of that style. Supple, flavour that winds around the palate, a modest grain but again not astringent. Wide finishing flavour. I love this!’ Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report, October 2018
From vines located just below the village in Les Chenes Les Pierres and Les Chambres. Made with 35% whole bunch and bottled in November after 12 months ageing in barrel to capture the freshness. Pale in colour this shows a very fresh and bright aspect with lifted aromatics hinting at cranberry. Super fine tannins and bright crunchy fruit with more depth and stuffing than the Santenay. Serious, yet so approachable already.
Three parcels, one more in the plain. Some fine massale selections from Volnay here, these latter vines always keep with their stems. 35% wc in this vintage. ’Again a modest, transparent colour. A little more focus to the red fruit and a modest suggestion of roses. A step up in concentration, more drive and direction – the tannin is a little more evident too but not astringent. This I would wait longer for or carafe an hour before drinking. But tasty, balanced wine with a proper if modest structure.’ Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report, October 2018
2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru Champs Gains
Made with 50% whole bunch in 2017 again this shows great restraint and finesse with no lack of depth and persistence. All class and so approachable already. Only two producers make this in red – Caroline and her father. The parcel is now shared.
’Lots of high and low tones here – a little more colour too – ‘yes its a small tank, it’s easier to do the pigeage!’ Theres more herb from the whole clusters but it’s exciting all the same. Round, full, concentrated, some of the wc showing here too – but sweetness takes the edge and the roundness makes life easy here. A wine of character and it’s not too ‘loud.’ I like the style. Not a wine for those unhappy with aspects of stems, but for others that embrace that, excellent!’ Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report, October 2018
2017 Beaune 1er cru Greves
Older vines here, planted in the mid-60s, roughly. White planted in the middle, book-ended by this red.
’Very modest colour again. Round, attractive, transparently red fruit in the middle, modest bit fine. Extra sweetness and concentration. A little more structure but not to worry about. Complex and with the intensity and complexity of previous whites. Bravo!’ Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report, October 2018