Established: 1987

Appellations: AOC Chablis

Proprietor: Arnaud Nahan and Thomas Labille

Winemaker: Thomas Labille

Wine Making Overview: Temperature controlled alcoholic fermentation at low temperature in stainless steel tanks. Ageing on fine lees for 6-10 months for Petit Chablis up to 15-18 months for 1er cru Montmains before bottling with fining and filtration.

Average Production: 22 000 dozen

Vineyard Area: 34.5 ha

Viticulture: HVE certification

Vegan Friendly: Yes

Vineyards:

  • 10.3 ha Petit Chablis

  • 18.95 ha Chablis

  • 1.64 ha Chablis Premier Cru Montmains

  • 2.0 ha Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons

  • 1.27 ha Chablis Premier Cru Vosgros

  • 0.69 ha Chablis Premier Cru Mont de milieu

Vine Density: 8000 per ha

 

Please note: Over the course of the 2018 vintage, the wines of Etienne Boileau have transitioned to a new label: Domaine du Chardonnay. This is the original name of the domaine established by Etienne Boileau and his partners in 1987. Same vineyards, same winery, new label. Read on for more detail.

Etienne Boileau and William Nahan have taken their retirement so its William’s son – Arnaud – who has taken over, but he was on a course (Haute Valeur Environmental) when I visited. Thomas Labille, who previously worked with Domaine Laroche and is responsible for the vinifications, was my host with Axelle Franchini.

They have already been busy – they have new labels for the domaine, the first in 25 years – I’m positive, they are a little less ‘supermarket-style.’ The elevage is longer and they’ve changed their seals too, moving to DIAM5 (and to stelvin for the Australian market). It seems that only the vines remain the same – though there are changes there too, after the 2019 vintage!
— Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report, January 2019.

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Domaine du Chardonnay was established in 1987 as a joint venture between three partners: Etienne Boileau, William Nahan and Christian Simon. Initially they farmed 11 ha of vines, alongside 80 ha of cereal crops, but by 1992 they had exited the cereal business to focus exclusively on wine production. Since those early days the vineyard has expanded to 34.5 ha and the winery, located by the Serein River in the town of Chablis, has been updated with the latest equipment.

For many years the wines were marketed as both Domaine du Chardonnay and Etienne Boileau, depending on the market. By 2019 though, all three of the original founders had retired and William’s son Arnaud Nahan took over the management of the business, while Thomas Labille joined as winemaker and equity partner. Thomas had previously worked with Domaine Laroche and in new hands the wines are going from strength to strength. A substantial investment has been made in equipment, with old fibreglass tanks being retired and replaced with new stainless steel (even stainless steel ‘barriques’!). The wines have always been great value, classic Chablis and the latest releases are simply better than ever.

And in line with this ‘rejuvenation’ of the business, the marketing of the wines will be consolidated under the Domaine du Chardonnay label, beginning with the 2018 vintage for the Chablis and Chablis 1er Cru wines and then the 2019 vintage for the Petit Chablis.

The approach to winemaking is directed towards producing classic, mineral, racy Chablis with freshness and purity. Stainless steel is used for the Petit Chablis and Chablis wines, whilst just a small percentage of older barrels is used for the elevage of the Chablis 1er Cru wines. The result is a range of very authentic wines showing refined aromatic purity and great typicality, with each wine clearly showing its terroir origins.

Thomas Labille (winemaker) on 2022:
It’s looking good – the volume and the quality. Some of the sugars are not yet done, though most of the malos are! We don’t have bottles yet – hence, even some of the 21s are not yet bottled. We weren’t touched by the frost in 22 – there are years with volume and others without…

2022 Domaine du Chardonnay Petit Chablis (stelvin closure)
Grown on Portlandian clay this is classic Petit Chablis, crisp and dry, fruit-forward and easy-going. Vinified in stainless steel tanks and bottled under screw cap. ‘Vines in Beines, Prehy and the plateau behind the Grand Crus – 8 months, stainless-steel elevage – ‘We have a big 9-hectare parcel, so we are looking for something easy to drink.’
’Vines in Beines, Prehy and the plateau behind the Grand Crus – 8 months in stainless steel and a little enamel for elevage – ‘We have a big 9-hectare parcel, so we are looking for something easy to drink.’

2022 Domaine du Chardonnay Chablis AC (stelvin closure)
From 2 parcels of vines on either side of Chichée with separate vinifications for the 17 hectares. Vinified in stainless steel tanks and bottled under screw cap.
2021 review - 2022 not yet reviewed ’Here’s a wine where the malo was stopped early to ‘keep more freshness.’ Here’s more width and certainly a fresher style – a hint mineral this one. Faint gas – less rich but still supple, involving, layered wine – with plenty of energy. Holding more weight of finishing flavour and for longer too.’ Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report, Feb 2023.

2020 Domaine du Chardonnay Chablis 1er Montmains
From 25 & 55 year-old vines in each of the 3 lieu-dits of Montmains: Montmains proper, Les Fôrets and Butteaux, 3.85 ha in total. Vinified in stainless steel tanks and bottled under stelvin.
’3 sectors, but all Montmains, 3.85 hectares. A calm width of aroma – a good invitation. More direct, more tension a little floral perfume. Wide and tasty wine – plenty. Of concentration but never dense. I like it a lot it’s very good.’ Bill Nanson, Burgundy Report, January 2022.